Knaresborough

Knaresborough sits high above the River Nidd, and the view from its castle grounds, down onto the railway viaduct and the river, is the picture most people know the town by. The town has enough to fill a whole day: a ruined castle with a museum in its old courthouse, a Wednesday market, rowing boats on the river in season and Mother Shipton's Cave in the woods by the water. It is half an hour from Thirsk by car and reachable by train, so it works for a day out with or without the car.

It changes with the seasons. In summer every part of it is running and a full day is easy to fill. In winter the boats are off, Mother Shipton's keeps its own Christmas timetable and the castle keep opens four days a week, so a November or February visit is shorter and best planned around a Wednesday.

From Tea Time Cafe on the Market Place, take the A168 south out of Thirsk and join the A1(M) southbound, then turn west onto the A59 into Knaresborough. Allow about 35 minutes, more in busy traffic. The castle has no car park of its own; Castle Yard car park is pay and display, with four accessible bays, and there is more parking in Chapel Street and the Market Place. Mother Shipton's car park is for its own visitors only.

Knaresborough has a railway station, and the trip from Thirsk means a change at York. Northern runs the York to Knaresborough leg.

Start at the castle. The grounds are free and open all year, and the view of the viaduct from the edge is the picture everyone takes. The keep and the Courthouse Museum share one ticket, and Sallyport tours are extra. The grounds also have 9-hole putting and crown green bowls, and the Castle Critters room has crafts and LEGO for younger children. The Tourist Information Centre is in the Courthouse building.

On a Wednesday the market fills the Market Square from 7.30am to 3pm. Then walk down to Waterside, where from March to October Blenkhorn's Boats hire out rowing boats every day, 10am to 5pm, with no need to book; rowing under the viaduct is the classic Knaresborough outing.

Mother Shipton's Cave, home of the Petrifying Well, is along the river in its own woodland park. It charges per car or group of up to five, and its parking is for its visitors only, so it works best as its own stop.

The viaduct is the star. The first one collapsed into the Nidd on 11 March 1848; the replacement, four arches and about 24 metres high, opened on 1 October 1851 and is Grade II* listed. From the castle you look down on it; from the river you look up at it, and both are worth doing. The castle itself costs very little, with a family ticket for up to five at 13.00. And the train link makes Knaresborough one of the few full days out from Thirsk that needs no car.

In winter, go on a Wednesday: the market is on and the castle keep is open, which is the best combination the town offers between November and March. Mother Shipton's takes cards only, and the cave is down three flights of 25 steps, so pushchairs stay at the bottom. The free toilets in the Castle Yard car park, open 8am to 8pm, have baby-changing and step-free access. Wear proper shoes, because the castle has uneven ground, historic steps and steep terrain. In summer, give the castle the morning and save the river for the afternoon. Train travellers should check the return times from Knaresborough before they set off, since the change at York adds time to the journey home.